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RE: Eclair Cameras: ground glass help



the problem with these cameras, any camera, is that each one is built differantly, and traditional off the shelf measuring tools typically do not fit where they are needed most. i have had to build myself a set of specially measured tools. i assume the manfactures of these various cameras, including the eclair acl and npr, made their own special measuring tools. i have never seen on come up on ebay, or anywhere else. none the less, i f you have not worked on cameras, or are not typically taking electronics/optics apart to mes around with them and see how they work, then i also would not advise doing it yourself. it is not the actual task that is difficult, it is knowing and having the correct instruments.

if you do tackle the task, visually mark the gg carraige position, as well as the slots where the scuring screws tighten down. this will at least give you half a chance to put it back in correctly. and make sure not to put the gg in upside down or backwards :) oh, i am not sure if all cameras have them, but on the sides of the gg, where contact is made to the carraige when tightening, will be some small protective slips that serve to protect the gg from chiping or cracking when otherwise making contact with the metal carraige. make sure not to loose these. also, reninstalling gg requires it be correctly cleaned, and remains clean while setting it. fingers are a no no. use some specialty tweesers with a wide opening. again, having the correct tools made or adapted for each specific camera is something that is very hard to do without. taking apart a camera is a piece of cake ... putting it back together is another story. also when you do your film tests, take a piece of paper and draw ad 12x9" line box. then directly in the middle of this box, draw cross hairs(at 6" and 4.5" centers)/center cross markings. then draw your fist line 15/16" from the top of your box downward. these lines are horizontal, and you need one on both the left and right sides. this represents 1.66:1. then 1" and 3/16 down from the top mark two more lines on each side ... this is for HDTV. then 1 1/4" down mark another line on each side, this is for 1.85:1. then 2" and 2 1/16" down mark another couple lines on each side, these are for 2.35:1 and 2.40:1. mark these same measures from the bottom of your 12x9 frame/line box upward. and then you will have all of your framed sizes. see as follows, the main outside box representing 1.33:1 /4:3:

==================================================
|-----------1.66:1              1.66:1 ----------|
|--------hdtv hdtv--------| |------1.85:1 1.85:1-----|
|                                                |
|--- 2.35:1/2.40:1               2.35:1/2.40:1---|
|                                                |
|                       +                        |
|                                                |
|                                                |
|--- 2.35:1/2.40:1               2.35:1/2.40:1---|
|------1.85:1                         1.85:1-----|
|--------hdtv hdtv--------| |-----------1.66:1 1.66:1 ----------|
==================================================

if you make this chart on your computer, using the exact measurements mentioned above, you will have a chart in proper perspective and close enough in measure/detail so you can set your camera up on a tripod, point at the chart and align to your own gg markings, roll some black and white film, then process that strip your self and using a loupe, see if what you are seeing through the viewfinder, is what is actually on the film. its a crude system, but works none the less. you can also use this chart, or one like it to test out various lenses to see how they deal with skewing at various focal lengts, especially useful if you are shoting objects or items that are perfectly straight or square, and you need them to remain that way on film ... nothing worse then having a curved straight line :) i beleive another use for this type of chart would be for making mattes for your mattebox ... not that anyone actually uses those anymore ... do people still use mattes in front of a lens? or is that all done digital now?

i have made some other charts during my lens testing stint a few months back. using a laser printer and glossy card stock, i printed out various mind puzzle patterns found in some clip art sites, and used those to compare my lenses and their respective resoliving power, although i was not able to gain any mathmatical figures from these, i was able to see the visual differances between the various lenses under differant lighting/f stop and focal lengths. or save yourself the headach and send it to bernie. the wonderful process of freedom of choice, and dictations of financial wherewithall.


Julian Williamson wrote:
The glass alignment is critical because the distance from lens to film plane vs. lens off mirror to ground glass must be identical or the viewfinder will
not show true eye-focus. not a do-it-yourselfer.

julian williamson

From: Paradime Media <paradime@paradimemedia.com>
Reply-To: EclairACL@topica.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:47:21 -0800
To: EclairACL@topica.com
Cc: bernie_odoherty@emerson.edu
Subject: Re: Eclair Cameras: ground glass help


Here is Bernie's email bernie_odoherty@emerson.edu It looks like you missed
the underscore.  Just click on my link here.  I would not try the glass
myself.  I don't recommend anyone who is not a tech go inside the camera
body.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: Fulgencio Martínez <mailto:rockanroll@everyday.com>
To: EclairACL@topica.com
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: Eclair Cameras: ground glass help

I´m sure bernie´s work must be excelent
The problem is i have been trying to contact bernie twice and had no answer.
Maybe the e-mail address i have is wrong
(bernie_odoherty@emerson.edu)
Anyway, will i be able to change the ground glass myself or will it be a
nightmare?
Thanks


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